親朋好友互相送禮母親節餐廳dm的旺季,但是大家一定都有遇過這個情形,就是收到自己完全不想要的伴手禮,這個時候媽媽可能會對著你說:「不要拆,那個沒有人會吃,再拿去送人好了!」竟然要送禮母親節餐廳dm,就不要送那種會令人感到困擾的伴手禮盒,這些禮盒的下場通常不是拿來轉送,不然就是放到壞掉,又或者是讓人邊吃邊罵髒話,這樣送母親節餐廳dm真的就失去「送禮」的意義了。正所謂「送禮就要送到心坎兒裡」,咱們會送禮(母親節餐廳dm)不就是希望可以獻上祝福的心,所以禮物當然也又用心挑選,對方才能感受到你滿滿的心意啊?以下推薦會讓親朋好友滿心歡喜的過年禮母親節餐廳dm,祝大家都有美好的一年。










圖、文/VOGUE

金卡達夏Kim Kardashian的暴露癖以及Vetements推崇的凡人精神,兩者爭相在世界舞台上掀起劇變。

兩種對立的意識形態正在爭奪注意力。忠實支持者堅定地相信那唯一的教條,最終顛覆了半世紀以來的舊秩序,迎來新紀元的曙光。

我們正在討論川普與柯林頓的對立以及英國脫歐(Brexit),對吧?

錯了!這是關於時尚。為何人們的選擇最終仍是在於品味、時機以及名氣,而所有的一切在政治開始以前即反映出同樣的大眾主義潮流。

我觀察到,時尚兩極化的現象大約是在兩年前開始發生。其中一端是Balmain,炫目浮誇的服裝是時尚企業心中不予贊同的光景。然而,創意總監Olivier Rousteing大膽性感的風格,卻以閃亮奢華成性的金卡達夏Kim Kardashian為首,被一連串頭號人物所喜愛。

接著讓我們將此等時尚變遷,視為唐納川普Donald Trump翻轉美國總統大選的先驅。而他言論好色、有一位性感妻子還有煽動人心的激烈情緒。對某些人來說,金卡達夏Kim Kardashian的臀部或許就和川普的狂言一樣令人反感。反之,也有數百萬人熱愛金卡達夏Kim Kardashian的裝扮,如同他們對希拉蕊柯林頓Hillary Clinton的褲裝予以批評。

然而,更多的民粹主義和不安情緒仍持續在時尚世界中蔓延。

Demna Gvasalia和Guram Gvasalia兩兄弟自前蘇聯下轄的喬治亞共和國移居巴黎,造就了一場名為「Vetements 」的「Non-style」顛覆革命。取代我們認知的時尚,其所定義的單品是強烈的極簡風尚:連帽衫、羽絨外套、牛仔褲等,卻蘊含極致精細的工藝。

現在回想起來,這個新品牌不僅挑戰了服裝秀的時機點以及系列產品的配額,也能被視為反映世界局勢的時尚鏡像,揭露人們的反叛思維諸如英國脫歐,還有正職為舞台諧星的義大利政治人物Beppe Grillo等。

Vetements公司在2014年成立,當時全球政治情勢尚未開始變化。如今,Demna Gvasalia已晉身巴黎世家Balenciaga的創意總監。該品牌創辦人Cristobal Balenciaga曾是當時的偉大典範,而今塗鴉藝術佈於牆面上,一間高級訂製時裝屋被街頭大眾潮流的代言人接管。

當人們要求「即看即買」,而大勢品牌如Burberry和Tommy Hilfiger等也迎合他們所需時,大眾主義似乎贏得了這場戰役。更不用說Instagram帶來的效果,像是Olivier Rousteing擁有410萬名追蹤者,而川普則是450萬名。

然而,為什麼要對時尚成為歷史先知而感到驚訝呢?事情一直都是如此。

1960年代初期,在避孕藥尚未廣泛被女性接受以前,瑪莉官Mary Quant便縮短裙襬,而「迷你裙」開始盛行。20年以後,1980年代的設計師則在打破玻璃天花板以前,提前將稚氣的花朵洋裝替換成強勢的女性墊肩褲裝。

回顧歷史,瑪麗安東尼Marie Antoinette拋開隆重的皇室禮服,在1783年的多幅肖像畫中皆以甜美的洛可可風裝扮登場。而六年以後,法國則推翻了君主政體。

此外,還有其他被金融專家嗤之以鼻的理論,像是裙襬長度與華爾街股市消長的連結。

那麼,時尚和政治之間是否具有可追溯的連結?在這新千禧年中,設計師本身之間產生了嚴重的分歧。關鍵品牌如Valentino玩味時尚女權主義-像是柯林頓與川普,或是「留下」和「離開」兩者之間的關聯,發表出強勢且遮蓋身體線條的長袖與長裙襬輪廓。

重要的是,當長期以來身為Valentino雙人設計師之一的Maria Grazia Chuiri轉任迪奧Dior之後,她亦為此頂級品牌帶來了「We Should All Be Feminists」文字印花T恤。

另一方面,極致奢華、性別主義的品牌持續增加,像是喧鬧的豪華內衣大秀維多利亞的秘密Victoria's Secret,以及德國設計師Phillipp Plein的浮誇裝扮和鑲水晶裝飾丹寧牛仔風。

兩種意識形態,兩方觀眾正在爭奪取得唯一信念的勝利。聽起來似曾相識?時尚和政治皆是如此。

(完整文章請看VOGUE.com)

※出處

撰文:Suzy Menkes/編輯:Sun/翻譯:Joanne/來源:@SuzyMenkesVogue

延伸閱讀

阿曼的「靜觀」歡迎式

珍重告別,Franca Sozzani

※更多精彩報導,詳見《VOGUE網站》

※本文由VOGUE雜誌授權報導,未經同意禁止轉載。

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2017-01-2003:00

WARM WELCOME? Vice President Chen Chien-jen said that protesters should avoid the cold by sending representatives to Sunday’s meeting to discuss issuesBy Stacy Hsu / Staff reporterVice President Chen Chien-jen (陳建仁) yesterday unveiled details of the government’s draft pension reform plan, urging opponents to send representatives to a national affairs conference scheduled for Sunday.Speaking at an afternoon news conference at the Presidential Office, Chen said the draft was drawn up after 20 committee meetings, four regional forums and efforts to solicit opinions from all sectors of society.Chen said the draft plan aims to ensure that the nation’s various pension funds can be sustained for at least another generation, delaying estimations for bankruptcy of the Labor Insurance Fund by nine years to 2036, the public-school teachers’ pension fund by 12 years to 2043 and the Public Service Pension Fund by 14 years to 2044.“Our goal is to make sure that pension funds remain accessible generation after generation and be able to support insured people into their old age,” Chen said.Laying out several key elements of the proposed reforms, Chen said the controversy-dogged 18 percent preferential savings rate for retired public-sector employees taking monthly retirement payments would be lowered to 0 percent in three stages over six years.The saving rate is to be reduced every two years, falling to 9 percent, 6 percent and then 3 percent. It is to be 0 percent from the seventh year on.For those who take their pension as a lump sum, there are two proposed systems: Either the 9-6-3-0 process to reduce the interest rate as with monthly payments, or a separate plan of 12 percent for the first two years, 10 percent in years three and four, 8 percent in years five and six and 6 percent from year seven on.However, public servants whose monthly pension is below a specified floor — to be either NT$25,000 or NT$32,160 (US$791 or US$1,017) — are to retain the 18 percent preferential rate.Chen said that the government intends to cut the income replacement rate for public servants to “75 percent of two times a civil servant’s basic salary” and lower the rate by 1 percentage point each year until it is 60 percent of two times the basic salary.Under current pension plans, government employees receive pensions of up to 95 percent of their pre-retirement income, which is straining national coffers.To make pension funds more sustainable, the average used to determine payments is to be based on a longer timeframe. The proposal is for the average insured salary of the final 15 years of employment to be used to determine pensions, with that number to be reached by adding 12 months to the timeframe each year until the 15-year target is met.Also, the retirement age is to be increased to 65, except for professions of a special nature or those that involve dangerous activities, while the ceiling for labor insurance premiums paid by public servants, public-school teachers and private-sector workers is to be raised stepwise to 18 percent.Other highlights of the proposal include a scheme to allow employees to keep their work years when they switch jobs, including moves between the private sector and the public sector.“The money that is to be saved by lowering the income replacement rate for public servants and the cancelation of the 18 percent preferential rate will be put into the [Public Service Pension] Fund,” Chen said, adding that starting next year the government is to inject NT$20 billion into the Labor Insurance Fund annually.Minister Without Portfolio Lin Wan-i (林萬億), who is deputy convener and executive director of the committee, said that as the nation has 13 different pension funds, the government plans two stages to reform such a complicated system.“We welcome various opinions at Sunday’s conference. They will be factored into the next stage,” Lin said.Asked to comment on a large-scale demonstration in front of the Presidential Office Building planned for Sunday by civil servants, Chen said that given falling temperatures, it would be better for opponents of the plans to send representatives to the conference, where their voices would be better heard.Additional reporting by CNA新聞來源:TAIPEI TIMES

奧克拉荷馬雷霆「西河」Russell Westbrook在小年夜再度完成「大三元」,生涯第60場胡牌,超越傳奇球星「大鳥」Larry Bird,獨居史上第5。

雷霆今天出戰紐奧良鵜鶘,Westbrook攻下27分、12籃板、10助攻,雖然又發生8次失誤,但瑕不掩瑜,搭配中鋒Steven Adams的20分、11籃板,114:105獲勝。

「毫無疑問,他就是個傳奇。」Westbrook如此稱讚Bird,「這真的很光榮,你不會把這視為理所當然,能夠每晚做自己最喜歡的事,就是一個很棒的成就了。」

用三分球替Westbrook完成第10次助攻的Victor Oladipo,談到這位今年大爆發的超級隊友時也是滿滿禮讚。

「他將會是史上最偉大的球員之一,他總是使出渾身解數,就是為了打贏勝仗。」攻下15分的Oladipo說。

史上生涯大三元次數紀錄保持人是Oscar Robertson,多達181次,排在Westbrook前面的是「張大帥」Wilt Chamberlain,有78次,以西河本季胡牌頻率來看,很可能在季中就站上第4名寶座。

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Indiana Pacers forward C.J. Miles (0) defends Sacramento Kings forward DeMarcus Cousins (15) during the first half of an NBA basketball game in Indianapolis, Friday, Jan. 27, 2017. (AP Photo/Michael ... 較多Indiana Pacers forward C.J. Miles (0) defends Sacramento Kings forward DeMarcus Cousins (15) during the first half of an NBA basketball game in Indianapolis, Friday, Jan. 27, 2017. (AP Photo/Michael Conroy) 較少











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Associated Press | 拍攝者 Michael Conroy





2017年1月29日週日 台北標準時間上午3時51分





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